Day 1 : Wednesday, February 22nd

Fendi :

For Fendi’s Fall 2023 collection, the inspiration was sourced from home. “It all started with Delfina,” Kim Jones stated, in reference to his seasonal muse Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the fourth-generation heiress of Fendi and founder of her eponymous jewelry brand.

Delfina, who was among the professionals named in Vantiy Fair’s International Best Dressed List in 2016, has grown up with fashion access that one could only dream of: the archive of Fendi, including Karl Lagerfeld’s RTW collections from 1965-2019, and the wardrobe of her mother Silvia Venturini Fendi.

Jones focused on her minimalistic style through the emphasis on three main categories: knitwear, dresses, and tailoring. The silhouettes were long, classic, and slender, but were coupled with subtle disruptions and asymmetry — merging together the classic Fendi archive and the youthful edginess that Delettrez Fendi brings to it.

This collection ended up being an entire family affair seeing that Venturini Fendi, who is the artistic director of accessories and menswear, debuted a new shapeshifting bag that can alternate between a bucket shape and classic tote while Delphina Delettrez Fendi applied her affinity for jewelry making to design earrings that resemble Fendi’s classic double-F logo.

Diesel :

Glenn Martens Fall 2023 collection started off Milan Fashion Week with a bang (literally?) in a playful collaboration with Durex. Martens put action behind the sexy aesthetic he cultivated during his three years at Diesel by staging the runway in front of a mass of 200,000 Durex condoms that will be distributed at stores amidst the release of their capsule collaboration in April.

Although it was definitely a conversation piece, Martens made sure the theatrics of the show did not upstage the collection he created. As typical, Martens continues to find new innovative ways to use denim— making it synonymous with the brand, but never allowing it to feel repetitive or overdone.

Distressed leather and denim flooded the runway; playing around with mesh inserts that make the looks appear to be easily ripped off. Several satin pieces also made an appearance, and since it is a fabric often associated with the boudoir and night slips, it really comes as no surprise.

This collection builds on design elements that are visible in other popular shows from this season: Elena Velez, Who Decides War, and Roberto Cavalli to name a few, so it looks like the distressed look is here to stay.

Day 2 : Thursday, February 23rd

Max Mara :

Max Mara’s creative director Ian Griffith’s found inspiration in the French philosopher Émilie du Châtelet and other female intellects in the male-dominant academic landscape of the 18th century.

Inspired by Du Châtelet’s survivalist tactic of dressing like a man in order to be taken seriously among her male counterparts, Griffith’s fall collection titled The Camelocracy both drew inspiration from her androgynous wardrobe and envisioned how she would participate in the 18th century’s apotropaic fashion had she had the opportunity to do so.

This is illustrated through the styling of Banyan coats, meant to rest on one shoulder, that draw a visible line down the middle of the human form: one half that must hide and another that no longer has to.

I find that the inspiration for this collection evolves similarly to the Talia Byre Fall 2023 collection that was inspired by female anti-heroes and the work of the American abstract expressionist Helen Frankenthaler. Griffith explains “Nearly three hundred years later, her gender is no longer considered to be at odds with her talent. She was one of an army of women whose wit and intellect were instrumental in producing change.” From the present day perspective, we are able to view the way women strategically navigated these spaces as a sign of intellect and power as we retrospectively honor their womanhood since it was forcefully concealed during their lifetime.

Prada :

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s Fall 2023 collection, Taking Care, is an ode to the members of our society who hold us together. Specifically inspired by the humanitarian efforts in Ukraine and the essential workers who sustained us through the Covid-19 pandemic, Prada’s collection interpolates elements of working class uniforms and dress codes.

“Mainly what I care about now is to give importance to what is modest, to value modest jobs, simple jobs, and not only extreme beauty or glamour,” says Prada, which is then later followed up in the show notes with the explanation that this collection is “embracing the ugly.”

If you haven’t read about my feelings for this show in my previous essay, it may sound like I am writing with a certain tone. I am.

This collection comes across as incredibly patronizing, not only due to the fact that these “simple" workers cannot afford the clothing that they inspired, but also because uniforms are worn out of necessity. A first responder or minimum-wage laborer has no control over the desirability of their work attire, let alone have the ability to embrace its apparent ugliness.

I think this collection contributes to a larger cultural problem of class performance. In the upper class’s attempt to absolve themselves of guilt by honoring the work that they don’t have to contribute to, they have instead just created costumes that make them look like they do. Both options are just simply a diversion of responsibility.

Blumarine :

Nicola Brognano deviated from his typical bright pastel-colored Y2K-inspired designs for Blumarine Fall 2023. This collection, inspired by Joan of Arc, adhered to an edgier and grungier image that has developed from the brand’s last spring and pre-fall collections.

Although Brognano has stated he relies more on instinct than seeking designer inspiration, parts of this collection remind me a bit of both Ghesquière and Demna’s eras at Balenciaga.

Chainmail as become a seasonal favorite for many brands, as seen in Dion Lee, Simone Rocha, and Heron Preston, so it comes as no surprise that it made its way back in Blumarine’s Fall collection. But other than that specific detailing, there really isn’t anything else to connect the collection back to Joan of Arc.

This wouldn’t be such a big deal if 1. chainmail wasn’t already everywhere and 2. Joan of Arc hadn’t already inspired many other collections. But when you have iconic shows like Alexander McQueen Fall 1998, Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 1994, and Christian Dior Fall 2006 Couture, all of which have a much clearer and justifiable depiction of Joan of Arc, there is nothing really about Blumarine’s fall collection that stands out.

Moschino :

For what we now know to be his departing collection after a decade-long position as creative director of Moschino, Jeremy Scott returned to the brand’s surrealist roots with a collection inspired by The Persistence of Memory (1931) by Salvador Dalí.

Warped houndstooth patterns, dresses that appeared to be melting off the body, and hoop earrings that dripped like Dalí’s clocks appeared on the runway as distorted 1980’s synth-pop further disoriented the hypnotic collection.

A painting about the timelessness, intangibility, and elusiveness of the subconscious mind seems to be the perfect inspiration for Scott’s grand finale. As he explained in the collection and in his interview with the New York Times, it’s too soon to see what his future holds, but as for the present, we are certainly “living in distorted times.”

I wrote about my feeling for Scott’s departure already in a weekly fashion overview, but I’ll say it again here: I think its appropriately timed (pun intended). Although it did come as a surprise to many, it is clear that Scott upholds the legacy of the brand’s founder and since Franco Moschino’s life was sadly cut short 10 years after founding the brand, it seems appropriate to not exceed that time.

Day 3 : Friday, February 24th

Gucci :

Sabato De Sarno’s debut collection for Gucci made the news for seemingly every reason but the right one. Conversations about influencers’ space in the fashion industry hierarchy, whether or not they are deserving to sit in the front row, and whether or not it is considered gauche to wear Michele’s era Gucci to the show when he is no longer working as creative director occupied my twitter feed for the duration of Milan Fashion Week. Although some of these comments needed to be addressed, most of the discourse surrounding the Gucci show is a part of a larger problem of how fashion shows present in the era of social media marketing which I wrote about in my essay Breaking Fashion’s Fourth Wall. So for now, let’s talk about the clothes!

Gucci’s Fall 2023 show was the first collection for their new creative director, and former right-hand-man of Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, Sabato De Sarno. This means that this is the start of a new era for Gucci and I think that is accurately indicated through this collection.

Whether it be the sexy minimalism of Tom Ford, accessory-forward era of Frida Giannini, or the most-recent 70s discothèque-inspired opulence of Alessandro Michele, every era of Gucci is one that is easily distinguishable. This debut fall collection feels like a walk through time; looking at the history of Gucci’s creative directors as well as providing a promising vision of the Gucci-to-come by incorporating some design elements created during De Sarno’s era at Valentino.

Vivetta :

Vivetta Ponti’s Fall 2023 collection takes us back to the rose-tinted freedom of girlhood. While designing this collection, Ponti relied heavily on the music of the 1960’s girl group, The Shangri-Las. Started between five high school girls, two sets of sisters, The Shangri-La’s discography lives eternally as a teenager who is full of unwavering desire and creativity. Having drawn inspiration from this concept and that era of fashion, Vivetta’s Fall 2023 collection is full of Mary Janes, baby-doll dresses, and cape overcoats.

However, the Shangri-La’s weren’t the only group of sisters that influenced this collection. According to the show notes, Ponti was also inspired by the Lisbon’s from Sofia Coppola’s 1999 film The Virgin Suicides. This may seem like an unlikely paring since the lives of the Lisbon sisters did not depict the same freedomland of the 60s & 70s in the way the Shangri-Las did. However, I think this duo is perfect. (walk with me.)

Vivetta does not hide her affinity for classic menswear. Even in her collections that present as more feminine, the designer still opts for traditional men’s tailoring. We can see that through this fall collection’s button-ups and pinstripe blazers that are worn over baby-doll dresses.

“The contrast between masculine and feminine remains my obsession, in my mind they attract and push each other away constantly: from time to time the volume of this contrast changes. This time, the volume is high.” - Vivetta Ponti on Vivetta Fall 2023

Now what does this have to do with The Virgin Suicides? Although the lives of the Lisbon sisters were tragic, the story is told retrospectively through the mythologized lens of the boys in their town which gives the story a whimsical, albeit perverse, male-gaze perspective.

The same can be said for the clothes in this collection; youthful flowing gowns and slip dresses are concealed by trench coats and blazers that are tailored to fit classic men’s silhouettes. In both the story and in the collection, femininity has been altered to fit the preference of the masculine.

Day 4 : Saturday, February 25th

Ferrari :

Ferrari (yes, like the sports car manufacture) presented their fourth show this year at Milan Fashion Week. This collection, designed by creative director Rocco Iannone, is an exploration of “beauty in motion.”

Although I personally believe this collection is quite nice, there is nothing that really justifies its existence. “Beauty in motion” just seems like a description that was added retrospectively to somehow connect the clothing line back to Ferrari’s main endeavor of luxury vehicles. In reality, fashion at its core is wearable art which means that fashion is inherently “beauty in motion.”

There is so much that can be done between fashion and cars, like Mugler’s 1989 Hiver Buick collection or Jeremy Scott’s current collaboration with Hyundai, but instead Ferrari relies on innocuous designs that contribute nothing more to the fashion industry or their vehicles.

For me, Ferrari’s decision to jump into the fashion industry seems like nothing more than a cash grab. Especially seeing that LVMH heiress, Delphine Arnault, has been a member of the Ferrari board of directors since 2016 — 5 years before the start of the company’s fashion line.

Ferragamo :

The trend of inconspicuous wealth and the rise of “trendy timelessness” continues in Ferragamo’s Fall 2023 collection. Maximilian Davis reflects on the brand’s history and connection to the newly-relevant members of Hollywood’s inner circle.

Davis’s starting point was the 1950s, the era when Hollywood starlets such as Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe would showcase Ferragamo pumps on the silver screen. This collection includes 21st century reinterpretations of circle skirts, cinched waists, sweetheart necklines, and the abundant fabric of the post-war.

Like many of the other brands retreating to timeless design, Ferragamo’s collection was void of prints (with the exception of a leopard print coat, but, in the great words of Jenna Lyons “as far as I’m concerned leopard is a neutral.”). This collection was almost entirely monochromatic, but since Davis is “[finding] resolute modernity through the new Ferragamo codes,” this collection also challenges the historic rules of dress by mixing colors that are known to be fashion faux pas.

Models are styled in black & navy, black & brown, two-toned black, and two-toned gray looks that are all very tasteful. This unique styling allows us to look back at historic design that is not bound by arbitrary fashion codes.

Dolce & Gabbana :

I don’t like spending too much time talking about this brand, but I just want to point out Dolce & Gabbana’s really desperate form of damage control. Every time they find themselves in a new controversy, which is typically allegedly every six months or so, they go back and reference their collections from 1992.

We can see it in the Fall 2023 collection that references Fall 1992 which, of course, is damage control for their latest controversy in which Kim Kardashian appears to be mocking their other ad that was called out for its racist depiction of a Chinese model.

And since this Kardashian collaboration was the initial damage control for the sinophobic ad, as well as their advertisement for the Spring 2023 collection, we see Fall 1992 referenced again in that collection.

But surely this is just a coincidence; back-to-back seasons, one of them is specifically designed to be “a throwback collection,” right? Wrong. It goes back even further.

In 2018 when Stefano Gabbana said he rather have their brand die than let Japanese designers work for Dolce & Gabbana, they immediately referenced Spring 1992 in their next collection

And again, 1992 is referenced in the first spring collection after the 2013 “Disco-Africa” Halloween party scandal where Stefano Gabbana is seeing taking photos with a guest in minstrel show makeup.

In fact, it goes all the way back to 2012, after their first major controversy, when they sent the models down the runway wearing racist caricature earrings, so, of course, they referenced Spring 1992 in the following collection.

I think this strategy is very bizarre, but it makes perfect sense. The only thing Dolce & Gabbana has going for them is 90s nostalgia. The design duo hasn’t produced a single good collection since they turned in their designer hats in order to work as full-time bigots. But the reality of it is, Dolce & Gabbana’s 1992 collections weren’t that special. It just looks like the less interesting version of Chantal Thomass if she hated women… and poor people… and people of color… and probably every other marginalized group of people on the planet.

Bally :

In a quiet 15th-century townhouse, the only operating winery estate in the center of Milan, presented Rhuigi Villaseñor’s Fall 2023 collection for Bally. The show, titled Persistence of Time, took place in not only any estate, but in the Casa degli Atellani where Leonardo Di Vinci painted The Last Supper from 1495-1498.

@ballyJOIN US Livestream the AW23 fashion show at 16:00 CET. Tune in on Instagram, LinkedIn or via our website, Bally.com. #Bally #BallyAW23 #MFW #TikTokFashion

Tiktok failed to load.

Enable 3rd party cookies or use another browser

This new muse of Villaseñor’s allowed him to take a step back from the fast-pace trends of Los Angeles, present in his debut collection last September, and embrace the timeless and nurtured luxury codes that are embedded in Bally’s brand identity.

“Villaseñor’s sophomore collection saw him double down on his urge to use his fresh eyes to refresh Bally’s long-faded status as a provider of louche equipment for the pre-digital jet set: pre-Tom Ford Tom Ford. ‘It’s about slow travel,’ said Villaseñor of his 20th century wardrobe shaped by a 21st century mindset.” - Luke Leitch, Bally 2023 Ready-to-Wear review, Vogue Runway.

This collection appears to be another iteration of the ubiquitous presence of trendy timelessness found throughout this fashion season. 20th century dress re-envisioned in a 21st century lens is still a reference to 20th century dress and “pre-Tom Ford Tom Ford” is still an identifiable period of time, so I find it interesting to see how we retrospectively look at these eras of time and culturally decide what and why things get to represent the look of “timelessness.” Hence why I’ve been calling this trendy timelessness since everything in fashion is referential and inspired by distinct trends and eras.

Bottega Veneta :

Despite writing a rather scathing synopsis of this collection in my essay When Capitalism Becomes Cosplay, Bottega Veneta’s Fall 2023 collection is one of my favorites from this entire fashion season.

Matthieu Blazy delivered his third and final installment in the collection trilogy, Italia. This collection served as a snapshot of “people on the street,” like in a parade, “where there is absolutely no hierarchy.” For this reason, there wasn’t necessarily a running theme or visual consistency within the collection, instead, every design was uniquely its own in the same way that every person is. The only thing that tied the looks, and the characters they represent, together was the historical comradery of both Italy and the Italian fashion house.

In the show’s mise en scène sat Umberto Boccioni’s Unique Forms of Continuity in Space (1913-1931) along with two 1st-century BCE bronze statues of runners that were excavated from Villa of the Papyri in Herculaneum in 1754. These masterpieces sat on top of another, yet more playful, representation of the country’s history: carpet meant to resemble stracciatella gelato; a favorite of Blazy’s.

The ode to Italian art history within the set design paired nicely with the ode to Bottega Veneta’s personal history within the collection. Matthieu Blazy continued to develop on his disguised-leather technique, which highlights the versatility of the textile, since Bottega is historically a brand that specializes in leather goods.

“Bottega Veneta is, in essence, pragmatic because it is a leather goods company because it specializes in bags it is about movement, of going somewhere; there is fundamentally an idea of craft in motion. It is style over fashion in its timelessness.” - Matthieu Blazy on Bottega Veneta Fall 2022 (Italia pt. 1).

Although I did have some personal disagreements with the meaning behind the collection, the clothing itself was stunning. After Bottega Veneta’s Spring 2023 collection, I thought the not-leather leather technique was becoming a bit gimmicky, but Blazy completely outdid himself for the fall season.

Day 5 : Sunday, February 26th

Shuting Qiu :

Shuting Qiu’s Fall 2023 collection, Into Another Reality, was inspired by the late Czech abstract artist František Kupka and his 1912 painting, Compliment.

“The creative ability of an artist is manifested only if he succeeds in transforming the natural phenomena into 'another reality.' This part of the creative process as an independent element, if conscious and developed, hints at the possibility of creating a painting.” - František Kupka

Building on Kupka’s contrast of green and red, Qiu’s fall collection focuses on the appearance of two entities reacting in opposition. This form of abstraction manifested through the clashing of unlikely color combinations, opposing climatic garments, and an array of bold mixed prints. Milan Fashion Week was the perfect stage to do so, seeing that Qiu’s collection stood out from the sea of quiet luxury and modern minimalism.

One of the prints featured in Qiu’s Into Another Reality was in collaboration with Smiley and their iconic original smiley face logo.

Since Shuting Qiu’s brand ethos is dedicated to pursuing environmental sustainability, 60% of this collection was sourced from scrap fabrics and recycled sequins. Qiu also highlights the traditional craftsmanship of her hometown of Hangzhou, China through the skilled artisans on her team.

Day 6 : Monday, February 27th

AVAVAV :

AVAVAV was on everyone’s radar this season with the theatrical presentation, Fake it til you break it, for their Fall 2023 collection.

Beate Karlsson questions the meaning of true luxury and (quite literally) deconstructs illusions of grandeur in the high fashion industry by sending models down the runway in intentionally broken garments that were meant to fall apart as they walked.

"I've been asking myself; why is luxury so serious? The last collection was all about keeping up a fake projection of wealth and the personal failure of losing face when this illusion crashes. I'm still on that theme, there's something very interesting with shame and what happens when we are vulnerable. What is the most embarrassing thing that can happen to a fashion house? I figured garments breaking might be it. Right now, I feel the coolest attitude is exposing your vulnerability, carrying it as an accessory." - Beate Karlsson on Fake it til you break it

Although this collection primarily serves as an opportunity to step back, have a laugh at personal failures, and not take fashion too seriously, I initially read it as a commentary on fast fashion and how it is not mutually exclusive to the luxury market.

There has been a lot of talk about “fashion gimmicks” over the past few seasons, most of the comments are negative, and although there is a lot to be said about how brands design their presentations around the sole goal of going viral, I do believe that AVAVAV’s presentation was among the more tasteful.

It was fun, it was relevant to the show, and it sparked meaningful conversation online about expectations for luxury fashion.

Subscribe now

(Paris Fashion Week overview to come)

Anyway, here are my Fall 2023 London Fashion Week outtakes:

Day 1 : Friday, February 17th

Bora Aksu :

What makes one an outcast? Do they have a specific look or is their look just deviating from all other specific looks? Is that a specific look in and of itself? Bora Aksu answers this question in his Fall 2023 collection.

For him, inspiration came from two places. The first being that of the non-conformist artist, Edvard Munch. After visiting the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, Aksu became enamored with the Norwegian painter’s rejection of criticism that allowed him to pioneer his unrefined art style. The second inspiration, and the one more explicitly seen in the collection, is the most popular eccentric character at the moment, Wednesday Addams.

Although I love this collection (I binge watched Wednesday with my sister in two days) and completely resonate with its inspiration (Eye in Eye is one of my favorite paintings), I think that is my very problem with it. In a culture that strives to be the other, we turn to those who already are for inspiration and rely on perfectly curated fashion lines (Heaven by Marc Jacobs) that promise us the appearance of this identity.

But the problem is, if everyone favors the subversion (which most of the time is just an illusion of it), subversion becomes a conformity of its own. This collection looks like many other popular designers at the moment (Simone Rocha, Sandy Liang, etc.) and that is completely fine, there’s a market for that, but we have to acknowledge that there is a market for that.

Di Petsa :

Inspired by her own Greek heritage, Dimitra Petsa’s Fall 2023 collection, Breaking and Healing, was influenced by the story of Persephone. As the myth goes, Persephone, the daughter of Demeter, was abducted by Hades and forced to live in the underworld. Her mother, the goddess of harvest, caused a famine in the land after no one answered her pleas for help. Zeus eventually intercepted and forced Hades to return Persephone, but he tricked her into eating food from the underworld to keep her with him for half of every year.

Although Di Petsa has influence over the fashion seasons, Demeter influences the climatic ones. In the spring and summer, when Persephone is home, the earth rejoices and bears fruit. In the autumn and winter, when Persephone is forced to return to the underworld, the flowers wither and the crops die. Appropriately, Di Petsa collection mirrors this with the first series of looks being floral and berry tones (spring), then warm solar tones (summer), then blacks and reds (autumn/the underworld), finally frosty blues and metallics (winter).

In a story that focuses heavily on a mother’s love and loyalty, there is no better time for Di Petsa to expand her children’s and maternity line. Pregnant models walked the runway in several ensembles including Di Petsa’s signature wet look.

Overall this collection felt like such a warm and comforting celebration of womanhood. Di Petsa’s central theme was the darkness becomes light and I think she did just that. This collection gave Persephone a new voice by emphasizing more on her and her mother’s relationship and authority instead of the men who abused and failed them.

Huishan Zhang :

Much like his pre-fall collection inspired by Vertigo (1958), Zhang turns back to Alfred Hitchcock’s filmography for Fall 2023. In this collection, Huishan Zhang builds on the archetype of the femme fatale by redefining it in a 21st century feminist lens.

This collection is full of 1960’s glamour that takes style inspiration from some of Hitchcock’s most famous characters like the driving scarves worn by Tippi Hedren in The Birds (1963).

While most cultural criticism positions it as a sexist trope, Zhang’s femme fatale centers women’s confidence and power instead of the stereotypical “pure evil seductress.” In addition to all the traditional noir gowns and sensual silhouettes, Zhang softens this image with lighter colors and bouffant feather details, giving the archetype a multi-dimensional identity.

Chopova Lowena :

Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena went off the runway for their Fall 2023 collection titled A Conversation with Angels. These cult-favorite designers further refined their utilitarian designs in a new and unexpected scenery: a 1970’s ski resort.

Their signature carabiner kilts are paired with insulated vests and body warmers. Several models wore blouses with milkmaid sleeves reminiscent of the traditional silhouettes of the Swiss alps. The styling of this collection felt very mismatched, which is not uncommon for Chopova Lowena, but with this specific theme it felt authentic to out-of-towners visiting a ski lodge and making due with their narrow perception of the region and the very limited cold-weather clothing they have.

In this collection we start to see an emerging pattern at London Fashion Week (and really this fashion season in general) which is contrasting lightness and darkness; both as visible colors, but also as what the colors represent. We see this with Bora Aksu’s contrast between gothic counterculturists and his signature light-feminine style, Di Petsa’s mantra the darkness becomes light and division of Persephone’s residence, Huishan Zhang and the new well-rounded femme fatale, and now Chopova Lowena with new cartoonish prints clashing with their traditional grunge aesthetic.

I think in the case of Chopova Lowena, it builds on the scenery of a ski resort and the constant comfort of lounging around in kiddish pajama sets knowing that you’ll never see any of these people again. But as a larger picture, I think this has to do with the industry’s current obsession and everyone’s favorite buzzword: Subverting.

I, myself, have a tab constantly opened to "subvert synonyms thesaurus.com" and yet I have already used it 4 times in this substack. Although countercultures and the act of deviating from fashion trends is nothing new, there is an apparent increase in its interest (and, in turn, its marketability). The most visible way to display this is through a transitional collection where your signature is met with its opposite force which is typically illustrated through the concept of dark vs. light.

Although I would say Chopova Lowena has clearer roots in countercultural identities than some of the other designers on this schedule, with the overexposure of these subcultures, even brands like Chopova Lowena are forced to reinvent themselves in an attempt to now subvert (5) those who are also suddenly subverting (6).

(I hope this short summary make sense for now, but I will try to expand on it more in an upcoming essay.)

Conner Ives :

We see another film inspired collection on day one of London Fashion Week with Conner Ives Fall 2023 collection, Magnolia. Titled after Paul Thomas Anderson’s 1999 film of the same name, Magnolia is an ode to the character and trophy-wife Linda Partiridge played by Julianne Moore.

But more than just an homage to cinema, Ives reminisces on the era in which the movie came out, the era in which he fell in love with fashion.

“My collection titles aren’t ever informative of everything that you’re going to see, but you pick out little hints at the heart of it… I always want these collections to be a cross section of pop culture, of my subconscious, of topical things that we’re all thinking about, and it just felt like such a poignant depiction of that, and done in such a beautiful, artistic way.” - Conner Ives on Magnolia

This collection felt like a fun game of spot-the-difference for any fashion lover who grew up in the early 2000s. There were references to Nicolas Ghesquière’s Fall 2006 collection for Balenciaga, Pucci-like patterns, styling reminiscent of Kate Moss’s Glastonbury Festival outfits, and a playful nod to Elizabeth James’s wedding dress from The Parent Trap.

Day 2 : Saturday, February 18th

Chet Lo :

Chet Lo further refined his signature spiky knits for the Fall 2023 season. In this collection, Lo focused on creating a more mature look that highlighted his technical ability in fabric manipulation. His distinctive knitwear is seen rescaled and resized in an array of different tops, skirts, and dresses.

The show, titled Bioluminescence, takes on a more serious tone as well. In an interview with Vogue, Chet Lo stated that the collection’s title serves as a metaphor for him navigating through his depression diagnosis and deep sea creatures’ inherent ability to guide themselves through darkness. This is illustrated through a primarily black collection with accents of blue, red, and green peaking through the dark fabric.

This is my favorite Chet Lo collection so far. I thought the use of color was very intentional, not only in the meaning behind the show, but also how it worked within the fabric. To use color to peak through slits in a dress or as an ombré effect at within the spiky knits really enhanced the texture of the garments instead of color and texture working as two separate entities.

Matty Bovan :

For the Fall 2023 season, Matty Bovan delivers another whimsical maximalist collection titled Deep Space Nymphs. Described as “hardcore baroque sci-fi”, Bovan uses deadstock fabrics in a seemingly random assortment of colors, textures, and patterns to illustrate a future where humanity’s appearance is controlled through artificial intelligence.

Bovan presented off the runway this season by instead opting for an intimate presentation in a cherry-red bar which allowed the audience a closer look at the intricacies of his designs. While I initially imagined the mixed matched fabrics to be an illustration of the pattern recognition problem an AI art, Matty Bovan’s approach was one that was way more human.

“Hand drawn, hand touched, mistakes, these all contribute to my world of splendor and luxury, infused with the dirty, worn, and overdyed” - Matty Bovan on Deep Space Nymphs

As a multi-talented creative who, at the time, was running an immersive art installation at NOW Gallery, it comes as no surprise that this collection was entirely made by Bovan alone. I think this detail is important and adds weight to the appreciation of mistakes because every imperfection is an imperfection of his own.

David Koma :

David Koma drew inspiration from the legendary German-American actress, Marlene Dietrich, for his Fall 2023 show. In collaboration with Marlboro, Koma presents a sultry collection that takes inspiration from Dietrich’s signature androgynous style. Models walked the runway holding rhinestoned cigarettes while wearing deconstructed suits “fit for the modern woman.” I'm not going to sugarcoat it, I absolutely hated this.

A few years back I went to that terrible immersive Van Gogh exhibit and was shocked that the gift shop was selling shot glasses with The Starry Night on them. Never in my life had I seen art “appreciation” displayed with such a blatant disregard to the root of an artist’s struggle, but David Koma really superseded all of my expectations.

Marlene Dietrich’s smoking habit gave her advanced arteriosclerosis, partially crippled her, and led her to become dependent on alcohol and pain killers. To try to honor her by making her out to be a smoking siren in collaboration with the largest tobacco and cigarette company in the world not only shows zero respect to her humanity, but also proves the very very minimal research that went into this collection.

Marlene Dietrich is undeniably a fashion icon and Koma is no where near the first designer to be inspired by her (see: Westwood’s FW92 collection Always on Camera or Gaultier’s FW01 spiral mesh print), but he certainly had the worst execution.

Ambush :

Ambush’s creative director Yoon Ahn aimed to address the cultural lack-of-individuality problem in her Fall 2023 collection. Inspired by Japanese school uniforms and the signature style of the Kpop girl group New Jeans, Yoon finds ways to personalize uniforms through subtle details that are enough to stand out, but are still distinctively homogenous.

Personally speaking, I would wear almost everything in this collection, but I think there is a bit of irony in the attempt to deviate from uniformity. This is one of the biggest examples of the subversion problem that I’ve discussed in other overviews. In attempt to stand out from the rest, we have circled back to the masses because, well, that is what everyone else is doing too.

Parts of this collection look identical to Chet Lo’s spiked fabric, Miu Miu sets, Rick Owens’s boots, and Charles Jeffery Loverboy’s beanies.

We also see the return of manufactured personalization and the illusion of upcycling that I mentioned in the Simkhai Fall 2023 overview through the same “repurposed” suit co-ords.

Simone Rocha :

In an incredible comeback from the disappointment that was Spring 2023, Simone Rocha delivered a cohesive and distinctively on brand collection inspired by the Irish harvest festival, Lughnasadh

The theme of bounty and harvest was most present towards the end of the collection where models wore gowns made of and/or stuffed with hay.

Although this is Simone Rocha’s second collection to include menswear, I wouldn’t say the boundaries between them were very distinct. Similar metallic tweed sets and sailor collar suits were interplayed in both lines. I do enjoy the menswear, however, I don’t necessarily see a need to separate the two. Prior to the menswear era, Rocha still incorporated traditionally masculine elements into her light-feminine brand identity and the same can be said about the other.

One thing that I consistently appreciate in Simone Rocha presentations is not only her ability to influence trends through clothing, but also through the styling of hair and makeup. I think its fair to say that the rise in small ribbon accessories directly corresponds with the rise in popularity of both Simone Rocha and Sandy Liang, so it comes as no surprise that we see this detailing further developed through the makeup and hair of this collection.

Mowalola :

Mowalola Ogunlesi presented her second solo collection, Dark Web, this season at London Fashion Week. In this collection, she builds on her futuristic aesthetic by envisioning what people would wear at after the collapse of technocapitalism.

Mowalola is a brand that excels in androgynous fashion and we really see that stand out in this collection through her bottomwear. Denim skirts resembling that of sagging pants and other skirts seen with screen prints of denim jeans were present throughout the collection in addition to Mowalola’s signature miniskirts seen on models of all genders.

Like many apocalyptic movies, Mowalola places her setting in New York City. Models were seen wearing classic New York streetstyle with references to some of NYC’s most famous logos.

One of my brilliant mutuals, Michiko (@parisianysl), pointed out in a Twitter Space that this collection is like a movie in and of itself in that its interpretation of New York resembles that of Nollywood films. As a British-Nigerian designer, Mowalola wasn’t replicating New York City as much as she was interpreting it through the lens of Nigeria.

We can see this through Mowalola’s tongue-in-cheek references to iconic New York City logos such as the MoMA and the New York Yankees which she then interpolates into her own name (much like her signature walkman trucker hat).

Day 3 : Sunday, February 19th

JW Anderson :

After looking through the archives of the legendary Scottish choreographer, Michael Clark, for their Fall 2023 collaboration, Jonathan Anderson was inspired to look through his own. This inspired Anderson to make this collection a trip down memory lane; let's walk with him!

While designers referencing old collections is nothing new, I have grown increasingly interested and its rise in popularity. Whether it be the Prada re-edition bags or Jean Paul Gaultier bringing back the 1995 cyber collection, it seems as though there is just as many old things on the runway as there are new.

And I know everyone has heard that "fashion is cyclical" and “everything comes back every 20 years”, but this is really the first era where that refers to exact pieces instead of overall themes and styles.

This is obviously due to the rise in popularity of archive fashion, but I think it proposes a weird paradox. For the past few years, archive fashion has grown in desirability and the fashion industry clearly saw capital in it, hence all of the rise in references to past collections, but a large reason for that initial interest is its inaccessibility.

The industry thrives on exclusivity and the only thing more exclusive that an inaccessible brand’s designs are an inaccessible brand’s designs that are no longer made. So, although I love the references from a fashion history perspective, I can't help but wonder if the callbacks to old collections will eventually decrease the value of their archives.

Feben :

After making a tarot themed collection for Spring 2023, Feben focuses in on one single card for her fall collection, The Chariot. As an emerging fashion designer, having graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2020, she uses the chariot as a symbol of confidence and strength in growing her brand.

In the collection titled Scales, Feben explores the strength in femininity by using artistic references to Salvador Dalí’s Gradiva and Lycra dresses displaying statues of the goddess Psyche. Feben also plays with traditionally feminine elements like sequins and beading to represent coats of armor.

Much like Dalí, Feben takes on a surrealist approach to design, so the Gradiva gowns paired nicely in this collection with her signature 3D textural pieces which also resemble coral and scales.

Talia Byre :

Inspired by Barbra Streisand’s portrayal of Fanny Brice in Funny Girl and Mrs. Robinson from The Graduate, Talia Byre’s Fall 2023 collection — Sadie, Sadie — is an ode to female anti-heroes.

“The person I’m designing for is brash, greedy, selfish; all of what’s perceived as the worst traits to have, but what’s great about them is that they’re also strong and independent—it’s their way of saying a big ‘f— you’ to society.” - Talia Byre on Sadie, Sadie

I wanted to highlight this collection specifically because Byre references my personal favorite artist, Helen Frankenthaler, by using her 1957 painting Jacob’s Ladder, as inspiration for the collection’s color palette.

Frankenthaler herself can be considered an antihero of her time seeing that she was among the many female abstract expressionist forced to live in the shadows of their male counterparts, so it is quite lovely to see how antiheroes of the past evolve into heroine of the present.

Yuhan Wang :

The theme of heroinism (and the theme of light vs dark mentioned in previous overviews) returns in Yuhan Wang’s Fall 2023 collection titled The Women Who Came Back. In this collection, Yuhan Wang contrasts her style of traditional Chinese femininity with Uma Thurman’s character from Kill Bill (2003).

“Yuhan Wang elaborates on her exploration of womanhood to deliver a revisionist slant on female figures fortified by the male gaze... Looking at the film through a feminine lens, Wang observes that, ‘The Bride’s quest isn’t about taking her revenge, but rather restoring her true self – a warrior.’ As the film flows, Beatrix begins to rectify herself and her beauty, and interpreted by Wang, it translates into a disobedient Autumn/Winter collection celebrating women’s resilience, leadership, and activism.” - Teresa Sui, Hyper-Femininity, Strength and Fragility: Yuhan Wang autumn/winter 2023, L’Officiel Austria, Feb. 2023.

In attempt to deconstruct the male gaze, Wang references Beatrix Kiddo’s iconic yellow uniform and Gogo Yubari’s signature meteor Hammer, but supports them through the use of hyper feminine detailing such as lace, ribbons and chrysanthemums — a Chinese symbol of vitality and women’s resilience.

Day 4 : Monday, February 20th

Dilara Findikoglu :

Inspired by the powerful women leading the protests in Iran, Dilara Findikoglu’s Fall 2023 collection, Not a Man’s Territory, is all about bodily autonomy and female rage. Findikoglu aimed to destroy modesty on the catwalk and she did so with strength and passion.

With hair being a central symbol in the Iranian protests, many of Findikoglu’s designs include strands of hair repurposed into miniskirts and bralettes. This puts pressure on the concept of modesty seeing that hair, which is viewed as immodest by the Iranian Guidance Patrol, is actively being used to conceal the body.

The collection includes deconstructed feminine armor made of silver hair clips and Victorian knives. Although Findikoglu frequently finds inspiration in the Victorian era, in this collection it allows us to connect to the social history of the powerful women who came before us.

One of my mutuals on twitter made an excellent thread further breaking down this show that is worth sharing:

Burberry :

Burberry’s Fall 2023 collection marks quite a transition for the brand as it is both Daniel Lee’s return to the runway and a rebrand for one of Great Britain’s oldest luxury fashion houses.

Lee gave Burberry a much younger look for his debut collection. The signature nova check was not included in the collection, instead subtle tartans, that are typically seen within the linings of Burberry’s trench coats, were revisualized as outerwear.

Since Daniel Lee is the ex-creative director of Bottega Veneta, who is currently going through a Stealth Wealth rebrand of their own, I must wonder if the same can be said about the rebrand of Burberry.

The nova check has a long controversial history rooted in classism. Originally created to identify one’s pieces as luxury goods, it is no surprise that owning clothing with Burberry’s signature pattern became a fantasy for members of the British working class. The nova check was quickly reproduced by many accessible retailers and eventually became a staple in the wardrobes of proletarians.

In an attempt to re-separate themselves from “chav culture,” Burberry’s former creative director, Christopher Bailey, decrease the production of the nova check by 15%. Over the years, as the pattern fell out of favor, Burberry has steadily increased its production. That is until now — it appears the game of cat and mouse continues.

Day 5 : Tuesday, February 21st

Susan Fang :

Since Thom Browne’s The Little Prince inspired collection was my favorite show at New York Fashion Week, I was happy to see another designer take inspiration from a classic children’s book on the last day of London Fashion Week. Susan Fang’s Fall 2023 collection, Air Topia, is based on the 1986 storybook Ami, Child of the Stars by Enrique Barrios.

Much like The Little Prince, the story is about a young boy who goes on a mission to spread optimism after hearing extraterrestrials tell messages of hope.

“It might be written for kids, but the philosophy behind the book is clear: What unites us all is love, and since it is the law of the universe, we should all make an effort to love others and be loved in return.” - Susan Fang on Air Topia

Both children and adults walked the runway in light pastels, frilly tutus, and delicate embroidery. This collection felt like such a celebration of both girlhood and womanhood and, in the spirit of unity, how one stays with us in the next.

Subscribe now

(Milan Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week reviews to come)

Day 1 : Friday, February 10th

Rodarte :

Kate and Laura Mulleavy started off this fashion season with Rodarte Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear. This collection highlights the contrast between black & white and silver & gold only to tie the divergences together with something unexpected, something magical: fairies.

The latter half of the show consisted of a series of caftans bordered with bright ruffled chiffon and adorned with whimsical portraits of fairies. Since talent seems to be a genetic trait in the Mulleavy family, it comes as no surprise that these fairies were drawn by none other than Kate and Laura’s mother. Using these opposites in design to find common ground on the world beyond reminds me of one of my favorite pop culture moments of all time: Alexa Demie and Nathan Fielder discussing the logistics of going into the fairy portal.

But on a more serious note, whether it be a representation of opposite political parties or other us vs. thems finding likeness in the joy of fantasy or just simply a sweet homage to childhood, Rodarte’s Fall 2023 collection acts as a much-needed breather from the stresses of being an adult.

To throw it back to the Mulleavys’ personal childhood, it’s only right to pay homage to the 1980s queen of whimsy herself, Siouxsie Sioux.

Models walked the runway wearing various makeup looks by James Kaliardos reminiscent of the lead singer, and titular member, of British post-punk band Siouxsie and the Banshees

My absolute favorite looks from Rodarte Fall 2023 have to be the series of mossy-looking knitwear and gowns adorn with bouquets of calla lilies that preceded the fairy caftans. This sequence of looks perfectly illustrates what I imagine that lush entrance to the fairy portal must look like.

Collina Strada :

Following the theme of fashion and fantasy, Collina Strada’s Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection, Please Don’t Eat My Friends, was the next show on the schedule. Inspired by the threat of an impending global recession, Hillary Taymour prioritizes sustainability and garment longevity in her company’s ethos. Although this collection is the “toned down” or timeless version of the brand’s identity (not necessarily by my definitions, but hey, to each their own), this was starkly juxtaposed by the presence of models in anthropomorphic prosthetics.

This isn’t the first time in fashion history where anthropomorphisms have been used to illustrate economic and societal turmoil. For the Spring/Summer 2010 season, Alexander McQueen used this exact concept to communicate the threat of the climate crisis in his final complete collection, Plato’s Atlantis. The vision of this collection was to predict what humans would have to evolve into to once the sea levels rise.

It’s both sentimental and incredibly concerning to see this symbolism return to the runway. From a fashion history standpoint, I love to see how these patterns form, but it’s very frustrating that, even 13 years later, we are still screaming the same messages into what is seemingly a void.

Thankfully for Collina Strada, these spectacles are not just façades. As partners of the OR Foundation, the brand is able to financially support the charity’s goal to “catalyze a justice-led circular textiles economy” through supporting communities like Accra, Ghana who become victims of colonialist practice known as garment-dumping.

To learn more about the OR Foundation, garment dumping, and how to donate: click HERE.

Simkhai :

Jonathan Simkhai, or as the rebrand suggest, just Simkhai, was another brand to present on the first day of New York Fashion Week. This is where we see the beginning the most ubiquitous commonality this fashion season: trendy timelessness

I find these three looks above specifically worthy of note because, they have echoes of a very specific type of garment repurposing that has been popular on Instagram and TikTok for the past few years. This style of up-cycling being, configuring second-hand men’s blazers into fashionable co-ords.

But if the objective of this is to make something new that looks like something old that’s been turned into something new, this alleged sustainably-conscious trend of timeless is only an illusion: nothing more, typically less.

Again… to learn more about the OR Foundation, the colonialist practice of garment dumping, and how to donate: click HERE.

3.1 Phillip Lim :

Phillip Lim presented his Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection through one-on-one showroom appointments. I’ve really grown fond of showrooms in recent months, partially because of what inspired my essay Breaking Fashion’s Fourth Wall: What is the Focal Point of a Fashion Show? and partially because it simply gives you a better opportunity to see the garments up close.

A subsequent pop-up gallery followed the collection’s debut in collaboration with Jiro Konami, a photographer known for their evocative photos of The City. According to Nicole Phelps,

“Lim gave Konami five pieces from his fall collection and told him to hit the streets. He’ll see the results for the first time when he shows up at his party this evening” - Nicole Phelps, 3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Review, Vogue Runway, Feb. 2023.

I always love a good designer x photographer collaboration, but this one is especially interesting for two main reasons:

1. The idea that Lim limited the number of garments that Konami was able to photograph. I think it speaks to the versatility in Lim’s collection and, by extension, his confidence in it too. which is point two…

2. The fact that Lim trusted Konami enough with his designs that he was able to view the photographs at the same time as his audience because, that is ultimately what designing clothes is about; trusting your audience and customers enough to faithfully represent your brand once your clothes leave the store.

Prabal Gurung :

And so we return to the whimsical animal theme of NYFW Day 1. For Prabal Gurung Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, it was butterflies.

Again, according to Nicole Phelps,

“Over the holidays [Gurung] did a 10-day silent retreat, during which time he didn’t talk to anyone, and wasn’t even supposed to make eye contact. But he did come face-to-face with a butterfly, and he found it a useful metaphor for finding beauty in impermanence.” - Nicole Phelps, Prabal Gurung Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Review, Vogue Runway, Feb. 2023.

I love the idea of highlighting the beauty of impermanence, especially as it ties to Hinduism and Gurung’s Nepalese roots.

The context of this show happening in New York City is also important, both due to the 339% rise of Anti-Asian hate crimes nationwide last year and one of Gurung’s previous collections, Who Gets to be American?, serving as inspiration for the two-part 2021/2022 Met Gala theme, In America: A Lexicon of Fashion.

"This is all deeply personal to me. Though my roots lay with my family in Nepal, this country is my home. America is where my heart is. I am an American. As immigrants continue to birth this "new America," we must remember all versions of our history and take ownership of our past while forging a new legacy. Amidst the deep wounds that are severing the unity of our country, I continue to seek the America I came here to be a part of—the America that I know is still there. And so, with the Spring 2020 collection, we seek to celebrate hope, courage, and present an ode to the true American dream." - Prabal Gurung on Who Gets to be American?

So to see Gurung continue to showcase the depth and beauty of his Nepalese heritage while navigating as a South Asian-American immigrant in these unprecedented times, truly shows the importance of collectively embracing our cultural identities while trying to forge this new America.

Dion Lee :

For the last show of Day 1 of NYFW, we have Dion Lee’s Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection.

I think José Criales-Unzeuta best described this as “high-octane luxury rave wear.” Especially considering this was the luxurious high-octane environment that attracted everyone’s current favorite rapper and it-girl, Ice Spice, to make her NYFW debut.

Again we see the animal motifs one last time on Day 1 with a few snakeskin looks in the middle of the collection. Not only is the animal motif a reoccurring theme, but more specifically how it relates to our mortality; with Collina Strada and the consequences of an economic collapse, Prabal Gurung and the beauty of impermanence, and finally Dion Lee and the symbolism of shedding old skin (an anamorph, a metamorph, and a molting).

“It is not unusual for Lee to find inspiration in nature and merge it with his industrial designs (for spring 2023, he found convergence between monstera leaf patterns and classic motocross lines). He has a flair for materialization, but the laser focus on a single motif this season saw him test this potential to the fullest.

‘There is a parallel with identity and always changing and evolving as a person and designer,’ he said. ‘But, really, I think I’m focused on how plants and reptiles shed their skin, and that as a visual in itself.’ He translated the concept into rhombus-shaped eyelet belting¹, wide-gauge knits² and mixed-gauge mesh³, peeling rubber⁴, distressed ball chain applied over silk georgette dresses (a technical wonder)⁵, shaved shearling (a crowd favorite)⁶, and Japanese shibori dyeing (a personal favorite)⁷.” - José Criales-Unzeuta, Dion Lee Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Review, Vogue Runway, Feb. 2023

I think I am among the masses in that my favorite part of the show was the outerwear. But with the combination of snake skin, ripped denim, and pantsless-looking high-boot combo, its safe to say that the 20-year trend cycle is getting shorter and shorter.

Day 2 : Saturday, February 11th

PH5 :

We start off the second day of New York Fashion Week with a discussion of inconspicuous consumption and ocean pollution led by PH5. In their Fall/Winter 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection, This is Not a Jellyfish, the brand highlighted the impact marine debris has on the ocean’s ecology through a claustrophobic and suffocating thalassic-themed presentation.

Much like the sea-life in the Great Pacific Garbage Patch and other disturbed aquatic ecosystems, both the models and their clothing were constricted by fishing nets and scraps of plastic. This waste was all recycled by the design duo, Wei Lin and Zoe Champion, and is intended to be recycled again. On a post shared to Instagram, PH5 showed crocheted handbags made from the plastic used in their presentation that will come as a gift free-with-purchase.

Sandy Liang :

What is seemingly everyone’s favorite brand and the moment, Sandy Liang, was the next show on day two of New York Fashion Week. This collection is unapologetically feminine, Rian Phin described it best as “a reclamation of girlhood” and “aspirational because of the kind of girl that wears it.” Sandy Liang is one of the best designers to look to for creating a dynamic brand identity in the era of micro-individuality. Liang doesn’t just design clothing, but rather creates an entire identity for her audience: the cool girl at the office, the mysterious girl on the subway, the girl who just “threw this outfit together.”

Parts of this collection look like a 2023 reinterpretation of kinderwhore. The style (popularized by Hole’s Courtney Love, Babes in Toyland’s Kat Bjelland, and other 90’s Riot Grrrls) aimed to challenge the view of femininity in the grunge scene by simultaneously exaggerating it and corrupting it.

“[Kinderwhore takes] the most constraining parts of the feminine, good-girl aesthetic, inflating them to a cartoon level, and subverts them to kill ingrained insecurities.” - Mish Barber-Way of White Lung

Although its name is very vulgar (which is ultimately the point) this style is about taking the hyper-idealized view of womanhood and contrasting it with an ironic provocation — another example of built-in identity in design.

Proenza Schouler :

Although fashion week officially started on Friday, tradition states that it doesn’t officially start until Chloë Sevigny arrives.

Sevigny opened for the show that marks the 10th anniversary of Proenza Schouler (Fall/Winter 2013). This collection felt very mature, like Hernandez and McCollough were catering to the audience that grew with them in the decade since the brand’s creation.

It addition to fashion, my other primary passion is literature, so I was thrilled to hear that this collection was in partial collaboration with the contemporary novelist Ottessa Moshfegh. The author, known for her complex female characters, was asked to write 11 journal entries about a woman who is learning about herself by exploring her inner monologue. These journal entries range from incredibly mundane to incredibly profound, some very personal and some more vague, which all highlights the theme of the show: a woman told 40 different ways (through 40 different looks).

Area :

Another commentary on mortality returned on Day 2 of New York Fashion Week, this time with Area Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear. Piotrek Panszczyk used fruit as a symbol to communicate both new beginnings and final ends through its growth and decay. The collection started off with brightly colored looks with motifs of bananas and watermelon. But as the looks progressed, the fruit blackened and grew spores.

Panszyczyk frequently references Madame Grès’s draping through his beaded work, but in this collection he pays homage to the iconic yellow dresses synonymous with the French couturier :

“I always look at [her] through all our work, but we always translate [the inspiration] into rigid crystals. This season, we really started going back to fabric, going back to basics.” - Piotrek Panszczyk from Area Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear review on Vogue Runway

Anna Sui :

Here it is everybody, the show that led to the creation of my Substack (see: Breaking Fashion’s Fourth Wall). Although I had much to say about the way this show was handled on social media, I also want to take time and let the collection speak for itself.

Inspired by the flamboyance and intimacy of the historic Peppermint Lounge, Anna Sui’s Fall 2023 collection is a modern take on the 1960s discothèque. Comprised of shift dresses, silk laced-trimmed miniskirts, and gogo boots, Sui wanted a collection that was playful and “easy to dance in.”

In addition to this collections references to the history of New York City night-life, there was also a lot of internal referencing to the brands own history. Models are seen wearing accessories reminiscent to Anna Sui’s Spring 1993 and Fall 1998 Ready-to-Wear collections.

Not only is this collection perfect for the venue, but Sui also throws in a view looks for the cold walks back home.

Heron Preston :

Heron Preston appeared on the New York Fashion Week schedule for the first time with his Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection. Inspired by the real people in the city, the stylization of Preston’s collection feels both incredibly familiar and unique.

The styling of this collection felt very authentic. As a Houston native (and I’m sure as everyone else who lives in a big city), it’s clearly evident that Heron Preston is a designer who watches what people are wearing on the street.

With the constant talk about the return of indie sleaze, I can’t help but imagine that this is what it might look like in the context of 2023. The collection was very wearable (and for the most part universal) with wardrobe staples like athletic shorts, sweatpants, and hoodies, but was elevated with unique accessories like chainmail detailing, fur boots, and leather chokers that look like barbed wire.

Sergio Hudson :

Inspired by the wardrobes of Fran Fine and Hilary Banks as well at the upcoming 2023 Met Gala theme Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty, Sergio Hudson’s Fall 2023 collection is an ode to the 90s.

Drawing inspiration from the designers who ruled that era, this collection has echoes of 90s Chanel, Versace Spring/Summer 2021 (which in itself is an ode to Versace Spring/Summer 1992), and Vivienne Westwood Fall/Winter 1993.

As someone who grew up watching both The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air and The Nanny, I will always feel a sense of nostalgia for this era of fashion, however, in the case of this collection, I feel like it is a bit too committed to reflecting those specific designs and it comes across more as a costume than an ode.

(Unless this is a super meta way of also referencing Moschino, another Fran Fine favorite, and their history of parodying brands then maybe I’ll walk with him.)

Day 3 : Sunday, February 12th

Puppets & Puppets :

Puppets & Puppets Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection was inspired by David Cronenberg’s 1998 film, Dead Ringers; a psychological thriller about deception, manipulation, and two twin brothers living double lives.

This collection reminds me quite a bit of Undercover’s Fall 2019 collaboration with Valentino inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s A Clockwork Orange (1971). Both shows highlight the color red and rosebuds and its association to the wardrobes of the movies’ villains & use prints of depictions of forced operations.

Obviously in Undercover’s collection, the prints came from the scene in A Clockwork Orange where Alex was submitted to the aversion therapy known as the “Ludovico Technique", but in the case of Puppets & Puppets, the prints depicted the painting by Gaspare Traversi called The Operation (1753).

Vivienne Tam :

Vivienne Tam’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Weaving into the Metaverse, is “inspired by the futuristic utopian vision of a new Hong Kong.” This collection is a phygital (I still hate that word) or possibly this time a digtysical (that’s even worse) display of tech x fashion where garments are seen with prints of various NFTs.

I can go on for hours about my resistance of Web3/Metaverse/NFTs and their position in art, but sadly I think this has become a new reality. For my own sanity I choose to look at the collection as a critique on techno-Orientalism and a display on the financial insecurity of blockchain since Tam is seemingly profiting on NFTs she does not own. You go Vivienne Tam !!!

Day 4 : Monday, February 13th

Palomo Spain :

Palomo Spain’s Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection, The Closet, is an exploration of queerness and gender expression. Building on the double entendre of “the closet”, this collection is also a playful reflection on childhood and the initial joys of fashion before being introduced to any societal gender roles and binaries.

A lot of these looks appear oversized, perfectly illustrating the way children look when playing dress-up in their parents closet. The final look of the collection even appears to resemble bed linens, like a child experimenting with draping.

Coach :

What happens when uptown kids go downtown? That was the initial question that prompted Coach’s Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear show. This collection had the fashion-forward thinking of downtown paired with the timelessness of uptown.

I appreciate this interpretation of trendy timelessness more than others this season (see: Simkhai review) since it actually promotes garment longevity and a circular textile economy. After Coach was accused of destroying unsold bags, they have since taken accountability and committed to more sustainable business practices. Several looks in this collection were patchwork pieces made of scrap leather.

Elena Velez :

Elena Velez’s Fall 2023 collection, How’s My Driving, was an homage to women of forgotten populations. Highlighting the fashion of trucker culture, lot lizards, and the women of the American Heartland, Velez focuses in on the areas of femininity that are often deemed invaluable to the upper class.

This collection explored the depth female rage and the feeling of being overlooked. Velez takes this to a generational level by reflecting on the history of American dress and how it is rooted in blue-collar workers.

Recently I wrote a rather critical essay on the optics of high fashion brands “drawing inspiration” from the American middle class (see: When Capitalism Becomes Cosplay), but in the instance of Elena Velez, who comes from a working class family in Milwaukee, this collection felt authentic and non-pandering

Day 5 : Tuesday, February, 14th

Thom Browne :

“All grown-ups were once children… but few of them remember it.” - Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, The Little Prince

This truism from was the central theme of Thom Browne’s Fall 2023 collection. Like I said for Proenza Schouler’s show, the two loves of my life are fashion and literature and, like many, I owe a large majority of that to The Little Prince. Thom Browne’s show started with two models, representing the pilot and the prince, walking out onto a set with a plane crashed into a sandy field.

The pair were then preceded by a series of planetary gowns, representing all the worlds the little prince had travelled through before he met the pilot.

These looks were then followed by models carrying classic Thom Browne bags, including the Hector Browne bag, detailed with clocks counting down the time in 30-minute increments. The motif of the clock was to represent the inevitable passage of time and the monotony of adult life

Thom Browne, known for drawing inspiration from the fantasy and folklore of childhood, was drawn to The Little Prince’s message of children seeing more to life than adults. This allowed him to transition between traditional and conceptual tailoring by shifting between the child and the adult’s eye.

As far was this New York Fashion Week goes, this was by far my favorite show. The set and performance were so beautiful (and the clothes were too, of course). I definitely recommend watching it in full if you have the chance.

Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2023 Show :

Day 6 : Wednesday, February 15th

Michael Kors :

Michael Kors Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear paid homage to the women who shaped fashion in the late 60’s-70’s, one of whom being in attendance herself, Gloria Steinem. This collection felt like quintessential Patti Smith’s Just Kids New York City. The collection had very obvious references to the time — the fringe, the hot pants, the bell bottoms, the micro minis — but none of it came across as outdated.

Although sequins are sort of a staple for Michael Kors, the way that it was presented in this collection reminded me of the legendary 1970s fashion designer, Halston.

Overall this collection was a very tasteful ode to the 1970s. I often feel like inspired by [insert decade here] collections come across as costumey, but this everything in Michael Kors Fall 2023 looked very wearable, well-tailored, and suitable for the times.

Wiederhoeft :

I am ashamed to say that the Fall 2023 season was the first time I was put onto Wiederhoeft, but thank god I finally caught up. Their Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection was a “post-gender retelling of Orpheus and Eurydice” where the fate of Eurydice is determined by themself; in which they choose to live in the underworld. I think this show is worthy of watching in full so I’ll have it linked below.

The show starts with a wedding gown fit for the bride, Eurydice, and follows with three bridesmaids, or rather the fates, who (as the name suggests) allow Eurydice to determine their own fate by cutting the red string.

The show preceded with a story of self discovery, style evolution, and gender euphoria.

By far the most memorable part of the collection were the incredible corsets. Since we are in an of era rumors about streaming services and production studios banning the use of the support garment, it was nice to see the art of corsetry re-embraced and directly linked to a tale of personal choice and bodily autonomy.

Wiederhoeft Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Show :

Who Decides War :

Who Decides War’s Fall 2023 Menswear collection, Politics as Usual, was named after Jay-Z’s Reasonable Doubt song of the same name. Appropriately timed in the age of constant nepotism and buy-outs, this collection was a conversation of politics and access in the fashion industry.

Ev Bravado and Tèla D’Amore’s signature stain glass motif was beautifully, and aptly, presented in this collection seeing that the show took place in the same Gothic-revival synagogue that Alexander McQueen held his Fall/Winter 1996 show, Dante. The collection was in partial collaboration with the Italian outwear brand, add, which merged the practicality of their brand and the artistry and design of WDW.

As the show’s title suggests, Who Decides War’s collection paid homage to the styles of NYC artists: puffer jackets reminiscent of the late Biggie Smalls paired with the Adidas Superstar popularized by Run-DMC.

(London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week, and Paris Fashion Week overviews coming ASAP)

Subscribe now